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Oman: A Fantastical Arabian Adventure for all the Family

Oman: A Fantastical Arabian Adventure for all the Family

Oman represents a treasure trove of experiences for families. Let’s get children’s priorities straight; swimming does come before souks and henna before history, but with careful planning, a fun balance is easily struck. Oman is sunny, clean, has next to no crime, is exceptionally friendly and over half the population speaks English. So much of Oman is familiar to little ears; tales of Sinbad and Ali Baba, treasure souks, Aladdin and his Genie and the Queen of Sheba. Children watch camels mingle with limousines; spotting satellite dishes on ancient forts and see how the past can live hand in hand with the present.

For millennia water was the Sultanate’s most precious commodity, but when oil was discovered in the 1970s, Oman enjoyed new prosperity. Keen to protect its culture, it moved at its own pace, slower than its neighbours, taking time to observe and learn. You could be left unaware of many modernisations; the telephone exchange looks like an old fort; new buildings are built in traditional style and the government has laid over 700 kilometres of pipelines under the sea, to preserve the views. Oil brought the car industry, which in turn meant roads. At the start of the Sandhurst-trained Sultan’s  reign there were only ten kilometres of tarmac anywhere in the land; today over 10,000 kilometres of treacle smooth surfaces stretch across Qaboos bin Said’s nation. And they love him for it.

Strong traditions

Tradition still reigns strong in Omani society. It is commonplace to light frankincense and sprinkle rose water on the hands of guests in honour of their visit. Men are elegantly dressed in cool flowing white dishdasha with scented furakha or tassel and intricate filigree-worked silver khanjar hanging from the waist – purely for decoration our affable guide Hussain assured. In comparison women are predominantly dressed in black abayas and gold or indigo burkhas emphasising flamboyant eye make-up, colourful jewellery and diaphanous veils.

In a land made rich on trading there are plenty of shopping opportunities for local produce from each region. From the tenth century, dhows sailed to far reaching shores creating an Omani empire that stretched from exotic Zanzibar to the Afghanistan-Pakistan border, trading in everything from silks and spices, to warriors and slaves. Hussain knew how to hook the children’s attention as he engaged them in tales of Sinbad the Sailor and his travels in search of treasure across the globe.

Muscat’s a singularly sanitary city where you’re fined more for a dirty car than for speeding – the spotless roads are lined with whitewashed villas, manicured municipal gardens. Locals are particularly proud of their new mosque. Finished in 2001 and costing more than three hundred million dollars, its cool shiny marble exterior defies the intricate grandiosity that lies within. Home to the largest carpet in the world, an Iranian masterpiece, which took six hundred women three years to weave, not to mention the seven-tonne Swarovski crystal chandelier whose droplets radiate a golden light over the 6,000 all-male congregation – Islam is very much alive. Children over ten are allowed in but need to cover their heads with the scarves provided at the entrance. Muttrah’s fish market is a real eye-opener for children. Packed to the brim with white-robed men touting a ‘stinky’ array of giant gambas, waist high tuna and eponymous trumpet fish. The nearby souk is good for souvenir shopping and local produce such as pink rose buds, painted perfume bottles of precious frankincense, simple kunjas and cotton dishdasha (at a mere ten dollars an irresistible buy).

Dramatic and memorable

Muscat now has two luxury family-orientated hotels. The newest is the vast Shangri-La Barr al Jissah Resort, which is really three hotels rolled into one mega-resort. For families the best choice is the Al Waha section with its complex of interconnecting shallow pools where kids can let off steam to their hearts content without upsetting anyone. However, our favourite hotel was a little further down the coast. Arriving at the Al Bustan Palace Hotel at night was dramatic and memorable. It sits in an oasis between beach and mountains like a knight’s sanctuary, its opalescent dome, turrets and archways shimmering as searchlights criss-crossed the starry skies. The Chinese restaurant was particularly good and amazingly well set up for children, who decided that Chinese, eaten with chopsticks held together with elastic bands followed by novel fortune cookies, was their new favourite food.

Each day we snorkelled with the resident turtles, and, just as we despaired of seeing dolphins in the bay, we spotted three gracefully dipping and diving only metres from the shore. Al Bustan’s scenic beach is great for kids – hundreds of metres of private paradise. You literally walk the red carpet down to the shore, rolled and unrolled each day to save you from scorching your feet.

A two-hour drive from Muscat, through the dramatic Hajar Mountains, lies the fortified town of Nizwa, Oman’s old capital. Make sure you go early on a Friday morning, market day, when hectic scenes of cattle and goat trading display locals in full swing. Auction fever is everywhere.In the vegetable souk, blind men, not privy to eye-medication in the pre-oil days, handled knobbly green pumpkins, huge vats of fresh limes and mountains of coriander and garlic. Interestingly the Bedouin tribes, who spend all day working in the sun, have no eye problems due to the henna-like substance called Kyhal they paint on their faces.

After a wander around Nizwa we proceeded through the ruined village of Tanuf to Jabrin, one of hundreds of forts being restored throughout Oman. We wound our way through the lovely town of Bahla and its famous pottery factories stopping to stare at the old fort currently being renovated by UNESCO. In Jabrin we delved into a seventeenth-century castle with wonderful hideaways and painted ceilings. The children found some young Omanis to play hide and seek with, as they chased along the Falaj, the ancient irrigation system, which flows through its ramparts.

Aladdin and the Genie’s cave

Other overnight trips included four-wheel-drive Wadi bashing, camping under the stars on a hundred-metre-high wave of sand in the Wahiba Dunes in a tent made of goat’s hair; swimming in the Wadi Shab – a lush oasis of palm trees, mangos and bananas – and watching turtles hatch under a full moon. The second largest cave in the world has been discovered in Wadi Bani Jabir – the size of seven aircraft hangars – and is said to be the home of the Genie (think Aladdin). Covered in colourful stalactites and stalagmites it’s a thrilling sight.

At the other end of the country, Dhofar’s lush greenery, cascades and streams are unique in the Gulf, brought about by the hydrating Khareef monsoon. From the first to third centuries, this part of Oman was actually the wealthiest region in the world due to ancient trade in Arabian horses and pure frankincense. Situated on the coast, Salalah’s unspoiled beaches are ideal for a plethora of water sports and diving activities. Several luxury family-friendly resorts have opened along the stunning stretch of coast – and dozens more are planning to throw open their doors over the next few years. But this quiet land is wise to stay clear of pseudo tourism. Its charm lies in its subtle and rather unassumingly gentle way of introducing tourists to its natural wonders and age-old Islamic-cum-Bedouin culture, secure in the fact that once tasted it is never forgotten.

IDEAL AGE: 2–17

 

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Feather Down Farms, England: Wholesome free range fun

Feather Down Farms, England: Wholesome free range fun

The Feather Down concept is a simple one. Guests, predominantly urban couples with young children and a vaguely eco-friendly consciousness, get back to nature on a small, working farm in a ‘tented cottage’. We’re talking canvas, but with wooden floors, real beds and duvets, and even a flushing loo – although there’s no electricity or hot water. The farmer goes about his or her daily work, and guests can get involved, or enjoy the great outdoors in their own way. Being on a real working farm, the children get to go semi-feral for a while. And, for a slummy mummy, it’s fun to wear the same clothes day after day, not put on make-up – a rare break from Nappy Valley of the Dolls where immaculate mums push equally immaculate children around all day.

Manor Farm in Hampshire, run by thirtysomethings Anna and Will Brock, is the first of ten Feather Down Farms planned around the UK. Ferrying our luggage in a wheelbarrow across the field, our tent, one of five, looked worryingly primitive. But inside it had a charming Little-House-on-the-Prairie-meets-Heidi vibe. A collection of mismatched wooden chairs sits around a huge table, and the focal point is a wood-burning stove. There’s a sink, enamel crockery and glasses (no plastic here), framed photographs of cute animals straight from central casting, and a vintage toy or two. Beds are in three sleeping areas: a double room (two singles pulled together), a room with bunks and a ‘canopy bed’ – a cupboard with mattress. The latter, with hinged doors and heart-shaped cut-outs, was a huge hit with the four children in our party, who rolled around in it like puppies.

Don’t be misled Feather Down’s cutesy good looks, because a stay here is surprisingly hard work. You cook on top of a wood-burning stove that’s easy to light but takes a while to get going. It also goes out overnight. Washing up is a nightmare in the tiny sink, and nights with real darkness are a shock to urbanites. Cooking, even with the help of Anna’s Kitchen, an established business selling ready meals (we had excellent lamb tagine and beef stroganoff), took imagination.  But it’s these ‘hardships’ that make staying in a Feather Down Farm such a worthwhile experience. Basically, you’re forced to relax into a slower pace of life, because there isn’t any choice. When it takes an hour to make a cup of coffee, you appreciate drinking it all the more.

Get away from Nappy Valley

Getting into this way of thinking at the beginning is a fairly tortuous process, especially when you wake up in a freezing tent and aren’t able to flick on a radiator or have a bath. But by the end you’re more organised and try not to let the fire go out and, more importantly, you learn not to get so stressed about stupid things like the pasta taking an extra half hour to make. You also find yourself with more time on your hands, despite being busy keeping the fire stoked and endlessly hosing mud off the children.

I stayed with my sister-in-law (a first-time camper, who didn’t find even the halfway house of a Feather Down experience the most relaxing holiday of her life), her seventeen-month-old son and his three male cousins aged seven to eleven. The children loved it, they climbed on to enormous combine harvesters, were chased across a field by llama, and the little one fell face first into a dung-filled puddle (admittedly, he didn’t like that bit much). The older boys churned up fields on hired bikes. Little girls in neighbouring tents made friends with the chickens and sheep housed in a pen in front of the tents and swung on rope swings. It was good old-fashioned fun. The Feather Down Farm concept is idealistic, not necessarily for everyone, but you return looking at your electric kettle in a new way, and proud at having ‘survived’. And if survival means a real duvet, then I say carry on camping.

Ideal Age: 2–16

Top Tip: Feather Down Farms are a little too cold for comfort at the beginning and end of the season. Take thick, warm socks.

N.B: There are also farms in Somerset, Cornwall, Wiltshire, Herefordshire, Lincolnshire, Lancashire, Warwickshire and Scotland. There are five tents at each site. Accommodation is in tents sleeping up to six people

 

 

 

 

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Blog Travelling with Kids

Travelling with Kids – How best to Travel with Kids

From Heaven on Earth: KIDS by Sarah Siese

My rule of thumb when travelling with Kids is that ‘getting there’ is far harder than ‘being there’. The more thought I have put into how to travel with my three in tow – often an equation between the age of the child and the distance to travel – the easier the holiday has been. As babies, my twins flew on our laps across Europe to Greece without a sound. At two years old, I would strap them into a familiar car seat and drive them across the Continent to avoid departure lounges. When toddlers, with airlines insisting on keeping everyone in their seats at all times and making legroom a thing of a past, a trip on Eurostar – during which a walk up and down the corridor would keep the children happier that being told to belt up at the back – always proved to be a better bet.

To help you prepare for the necessary evil of taking the tribe across the globe, we have compiled the following list of dos and don’ts. The list begins with the not-so-obvious suggestion of talking to the customer services department of your chosen airline before flying out. Without you knowing it, many airlines and tour operators do offer families special provision to pre-book seats together, or – in the case of BA for example – to order a healthy child’s meal online, or book one of their special Britax child seats on board. When The Times undertook two comprehensive surveys to rate twelve airlines on how they catered for families, the ratings included everything from charges for infants, pre-bookable seats, provision of cots and bassinets, along with nappies, formula milk, baby food, bottled water and beakers and bottles in emergency situations. Airlines were also graded on what entertainment and entertainment packs were offered to make the flight as hassle-free as possible for parents. As someone who has experienced the horror of boarding a plane to find the baby change bag had been left on the back seat of the car, I would argue that paying a little extra for a decent airline is worth its weight in nappy bags.

Finally, what rings true for a mother of a baby, will not necessarily register on the Richter scale for a mother with a pre-schooler. For this reason, we have divided up the list of dos and don’ts to cover the most difficult ages. After the age of six, when the wonderful world of books, Game Boys, iPods and in-car/flight entertainment kick in, you are on your own – free to open a book and read yourself, perhaps for the first time that year.

From hard experience, it is also better to travel pessimistically than optimistically. Having suffered a delay on a trip to Spain on my own with a bored eighteen-month-old son who seemed intent on clearing the bottles and packets from the bottom shelf of Boots and diving into the Disney store’s pile of Pooh Bears, I later became obsessed with checking what airport authorities provided in the way of a ‘family’ area once parents had checked in. Copenhagen airport, for example, has a fabulous replica of an airplane with peekaboo windows, a slide down the back and endless tables of Lego for small children to play on. Some terminals in Heathrow, however, have nothing but shops and won’t even let you sit at the oyster bar for a restorative glass of wine with a child if you have a child in tow.

Again, preparation can be the key. A quick look at the Internet, or a call to the airport before you book might make you choose a regional airport over Gatwick or Heathrow because with little ones, size does matter. Little things please little minds, and when it comes to travelling with kids, bigger is not always better.

Dos and Don’ts

Babies – up to eight months

Dos

  • Do check with the customer services of the airline to find out what provision is made for families with babies. For example, whether you can take a pushchair to the boarding gate, where they are checked into the hold and reclaimed at the other end, either at the aircraft door (ideal) or the carousel (not so ideal). Regulations vary between different airports and airlines.
  • Do request bulkhead seats if your child is under two, where the cot/child seat is attached after take-off. These seats are often near the loo, and also offer a little more legroom.
  • Do take all baby essentials as hand luggage – you may get delayed taking off.
  • Do take a wet flannel in a plastic bag as well as wipes. Babies hate the taste of chemicals on their fingers.
  • Do feed your baby on take-off and landing to stop discomfort as the cabin pressure changes.
  • Do offer frequent feeds, including water, because flying is an especially dehydrating experience for an infant.

Don’ts

  • Don’t forget to take a change of clothes, as well as nappies and wipes. The law of gravity demands that the cup of water will find its way down the baby’s front.
  • Don’t forget to take the food your baby is used to, and ask for it to be warmed. Many airlines do not carry baby food, and on board is not the place to acquaint your baby with new tastes.
  • Don’t plan for your baby to sleep throughout the journey. Even if the baby does sleep, if there is any turbulence, the cabin crew will disturb them so that their seatbelt can be attached, according to regulations.
  • Don’t forget to take your baby’s favourite teddy. Airlines do provide sheets and blankets for cots but the familiarity of a teddy can make the difference between sleep or no sleep.

Infants – aged between nine months and two years

This is the most challenging age, when children are crawling, walking, demanding constant entertainment, and the rest of the passengers tend to scowl rather than coo over your little angels.

Dos

  • Do book airline seats well in advance so you can all sit together, and order children’s meals at the same time.
  • Do take a supply of healthy snacks (rather than sweet ones, which will result in the inevitable sugar rush) such as raisins, bread sticks and rice cakes. Just the conjuror’s trick of pulling something new out of the bag will be a distraction for a few minutes.
  • Do take reins for toddlers. It is often a long walk from the aircraft through passport control to the carousel, and reins can keep a toddler upright.
  • Do ask if the swimming pool (if there is one) is attended full-time.

Don’ts

  • Don’t forget that although children under two pay ten per cent of the adult fare, they are often provided with no food and no baggage allowance, so check ahead about weight allowance and number of bags admitted. Some airlines, such as BA, do offer twenty-three kilos of luggage allowance for under twos.
  • Don’t take overnight flights if you can possibly avoid it. Children without the familiar routine of bedtime often do not sleep at all, so neither will you.
  • Don’t be tempted to drug your child with Piriton or Vallergan (over-the-counter and prescription antihistamines sometimes prescribed by doctors for jetlag), unless you are able to try out the medication before flying. It can result in hyperactivity (as my twelve-hour flight to America with a lively four-year-old proved). Camomile tea, on the other hand, is harmless and may bring on sleep.
  • Don’t put off the trip to the loo until landing. Just before descent is normally the ideal time, and prevents a crisis in the long wait to disembark.

Up to the age of six

Children at this age usually love the excitement of flying, the main problem is stopping them watching videos for ten hours non-stop often washed down with the unlimited fizzy drinks that come free from the trolley.

Dos

  • Do put a bracelet tag on your child with your mobile phone number if they are prone to running away in crowds.
  • Do get your children to pack a small backpack with Lego, magazines, colouring pencils to carry on board. Ask ahead whether entertainment packs are offered.
  • Do buy one new thing to do with the child as a treat to save for a fractious moment, a new book to read together or a game of travel Scrabble.
  • Do remember to take blindfolds if your child will only sleep in the pitch black

Don’ts

  • Don’t forget to have some boiled sweets in your bag to help ears pop on the final descent.
  • Don’t forget to ask at check-in whether you can sit with other families. The best entertainment can be a like-minded child with new magazines and toys in their backpack, and thankful parents looking for respite.

Kids’ Clubs

There are no universal regulations for kids clubs in hotels so standards do vary depending on your destination and your hotel. Clubs should offer a safe and stimulating play environment and provide activities that appeal to and inspire children, regardless of the length or frequency of their visits. If they are biased towards the local area, so much the better.

The following checklist is not a comprehensive tick-the-box guide, but should give you enough basic information to assess the club’s suitability depending on the age of your children.

Checklist

  • How safe is the environment? Gleneagles, for example, has an ingenious tagging system, like a clothing security device, for keeping track of children.
  • How engaging is it for children? Do they offer a daily timetable of activities
  • How well managed is the service? What is the ratio of staff to children?
  • How cheerful, kind and patient are the staff? Ask to meet a couple.
  • Parents should feel welcome to stay with their children if they want to, especially at mealtimes.
  • Location, location, location: is the club bright and airy or tucked away in a dead-end zone, dark and uninviting?
  • What are the resources like? Are staff able to use other areas of the hotel e.g. the ballroom, or the grounds, access to fresh air should be a pre-requisite. It’s no holiday for the child if they are confined to some chilled air-con zone or pen.

The clubs should comply with all relevant legislation, including the screening of PlayStation games, administration of medication, infection control, accident and fire procedures and very comprehensive written risk assessments, all of which you are entitled to enquire about if you have any concerns.

Staff should also be suitably trained in first aid, anaphylaxis and have EpiPen training.

Healthy drinks and snacks should be available throughout the day as part of promoting a healthy lifestyle and avoiding dehydration, and you should be asked whether your child has any special dietary requirements or nut allergies.

Staff should interact enthusiastically and purposefully with children in play activities building their confidence and self-esteem. You should expect an appropriate balance between activities children can choose for themselves and those inspired by adults, which will enable them to plan, negotiate, take decisions and be independent.

Activities

A constantly changing theme in the kids clubs renews energy for both staff and children. Although the focus is on fun and relaxation rather than learning, activities in a seaside location, for example, should always feature the local wildlife to show thought has gone into the structure of the day.

Often kids clubs’ activities are divided into different age groups, but there should be flexibility for the age groups to interact, or for siblings to stay together if they want.

Examples of Activities at the Best Clubs

  • Outdoor activities, such as dog walking at Fairmont Waterfront in Vancouver
  • Bird watching, such as at Hell Bay in the Scillies
  • A well equipped club with have a huge number of props for imaginative play such as dressing-up, a grocery shop, a playhouse with dolls, Brio train set, castles and farmyards, dolls house, ethnic dolls, board games like snakes and ladders, such as at Gleneagles
  • Artistic play: T-shirt painting, painting art for the walls, mask making, such as Reethi Rah
  • Indigenous crafts, such as weaving with local Rastafarians at Round Hill, Jamaica

In the twenty-first century it is becoming increasingly commonplace for children to be an inclusive part of guest hospitality. Although you don’t expect to see signs saying, ‘Only well behaved children are welcome’, it is important to remember to be considerate to other guests who may not have little ones in tow.