Categories
Blog Travelling with Kids

The Biking Dutchman of Ecuador

EcuadorIn the Ecuadorian capital of Quito, there lives an eccentric and adventurous Ecuador Cotopaximan called Jan.  Many thought that the Biking Dutchman, as he is known locally, was missing a cell or two when he pioneered mountain biking along the Avenue of Volcanoes more than twenty years ago. Mainland Ecuador is compact and easy to get around.  Roads are almost invariably scenic, journeys comfortably short, domestic flights affordable and a recently refurbished railway makes movement easily achievable. I decided however, inspired by the Biking Dutchman, to opt for an infinitely more exciting mode of transport; the bicycle. I had the choice of a diversity of bike rides in the regions that surround Quito; snow-capped active volcanoes, exhilarating páramo (barren plateaus) dipping into cloud forests, exotic, winding jungle paths.

This coupled with the promise of no cleaning dirty bikes and no need to mend any roadside punctures and I was sold!   I opted for a day ride down Cotopaxi, the world’s Biking Dutchman, Ecuadorhighest active volcano, which rises a magnificent 5,897 metres above sea level.  In the heart of the Andean mountains, the Cotopaxi National Park offers some pretty dramatic and pretty stunning views, with an endless sea of valleys, mountains, multi-coloured fields, forests, lakes and plateaus.

It was an early start as we rode in the jeep along the Avenue of Volcanoes, all the way up to 4600 metres in order to ensure that most of the ride would be downhill!  Geared up in about six layers of clothing (it’s freezing at this altitude), and kitted out with a helmet, gloves and protection pads, I set off on my biking adventure of the world’s highest active volcano. IMG_0409

The first five miles covered a steep 700 metre descent along rough dirt roads.  We whizzed through volcanic ash and out onto breath-taking páramo landscape.  Gusty, cold winds cut through my puffer coat and left my fingers chilled to the bone.  At 3800 metres a little bit of pedalling was required, as we covered another five miles along a grassed cycle track. We wove between volcanic boulders and wild horses, all the way to our picturesque highland lunch spot which was scattered with Inca ruins.

We put the bikes back on the jeep and head IMG_0084for the Lake of Limpiopungo at 3,800 metres.  We then embarked on a long downhill stretch on dirt and paved roads, and then followed a winding path through fresh-scented pine forests. By just 4pm we were back in Quito and after 25 miles, but with no sore legs, my biking adventure was over for the day. Ecuador is truly a biker’s paradise with its spectacular countryside and we would highly recommend seeing the Andean highlands from the seat of a bicycle! Biking Dutchman, Ecuador

Categories
Blog Travelling with Kids

Galápagos Islands

IMG_0201 Galápagos Islands, Ecuador IMG_0212There are some places in the world that I consider myself extremely fortunate to have visited once. I cannot believe I’m back on Genovesa in the Galápagos Islands, swimming eye to eye with a couple of playful fur sea lions. Their big smiley eyes keep pace with me as I snorkel along the inner perimeter of this spectacular caldera in the northern part of the archipelago. IMG_0274This is an island to free the soul. Fregate birds a plenty puff out their Crimson air sacks to attract passing females, while Red-footed and Nazca boobies show off their twig-laden nests. Overhead, exotic red-billed tropicbirds call for their mates, while a small Galapagos mocking bird takes a fancy to my shoelaces. This is not just a birder’s heaven, this is the epitome of the Galapagos miracle that leaves wonderment in your heart and makes you feel good to be alive. Most of the passengers on my ship, the IMG_0297Eclipse, are over fifty and happy to have waited a lifetime to experience this phenomenon; smiles are on everyone’s face this week.  Our boat, operated by Ocean Adventures, was remarkable for its knowledgeable crew and guides, who were entertaining and well read in the island’s flora and fauna.  This is a great choice if you are going to the Galápagos with children; families get their own activity pack and personal guide. IMG_0213 Our cabins were spacious and our showers always hot and I whiled away many afternoons on a comfy sun bed on top deck.  The logistical slickness of the Eclipse belies its size; its four little ribs ferry guests to and from the mainland with minimal effort and extreme swiftness. The walk to the peak on Bartolomé Island offered a great finale to our week in the Galápagos.  IMG_0227The far-reaching views take in the southern archipelago and we get the chance to see Bartolomé’s iconic volcanic spatter cones and flows.  The landscape here is like no other on earth with glistening black, green, red and orange landforms that jut out across the horizon.  The majestic Pinnacle Rock, which towers over the island, is a popular spot for the Galápagos penguins, who dart happily in and out of the rocky outcrops. The Galápagos Islands are continually awe-inspiring; in one day you can frolic with sea lions, swim with green and black turtles and admire theIMG_0196 stately flightless cormorants.  I wished I could teleport my loved ones to come and share in the delight and beauty of the Galápagos. IMG_0205