
man called Jan. Many thought that the Biking Dutchman, as he is known locally, was missing a cell or two when he pioneered mountain biking along the Avenue of Volcanoes more than twenty years ago. Mainland Ecuador is compact and easy to get around. Roads are almost invariably scenic, journeys comfortably short, domestic flights affordable and a recently refurbished railway makes movement easily achievable. I decided however, inspired by the Biking Dutchman, to opt for an infinitely more exciting mode of transport; the bicycle. I had the choice of a diversity of bike rides in the regions that surround Quito; snow-capped active volcanoes, exhilarating páramo (barren plateaus) dipping into cloud forests, exotic, winding jungle paths.
This coupled with the promise of no cleaning dirty bikes and no need to mend any roadside punctures and I was sold! I opted for a day ride down Cotopaxi, the world’s 
It was an early start as we rode in the jeep along the Avenue of Volcanoes, all the way up to 4600 metres in order to ensure that most of the ride would be downhill! Geared up in about six layers of clothing (it’s freezing at this altitude), and kitted out with a helmet, gloves and protection pads, I set off on my biking adventure of the world’s highest active volcano.
The first five miles covered a steep 700 metre descent along rough dirt roads. We whizzed through volcanic ash and out onto breath-taking páramo landscape. Gusty, cold winds cut through my puffer coat and left my fingers chilled to the bone. At 3800 metres a little bit of pedalling was required, as we covered another five miles along a grassed cycle track. We wove between volcanic boulders and wild horses, all the way to our picturesque highland lunch spot which was scattered with Inca ruins.
We put the bikes back on the jeep and head 

There are some places in the world that I consider myself extremely fortunate to have visited once. I cannot believe I’m back on Genovesa in the Galápagos Islands, swimming eye to eye with a couple of playful fur sea lions. Their big smiley eyes keep pace with me as I snorkel along the inner perimeter of this spectacular caldera in the northern part of the archipelago.
This is an island to free the soul. Fregate birds a plenty puff out their Crimson air sacks to attract passing females, while Red-footed and Nazca boobies show off their twig-laden nests. Overhead, exotic red-billed tropicbirds call for their mates, while a small Galapagos mocking bird takes a fancy to my shoelaces. This is not just a birder’s heaven, this is the epitome of the Galapagos miracle that leaves wonderment in your heart and makes you feel good to be alive. Most of the passengers on my ship, the
Eclipse, are over fifty and happy to have waited a lifetime to experience this phenomenon; smiles are on everyone’s face this week. Our boat, operated by Ocean Adventures, was remarkable for its knowledgeable crew and guides, who were entertaining and well read in the island’s flora and fauna. This is a great choice if you are going to the Galápagos with children; families get their own activity pack and personal guide. 

stately flightless cormorants. I wished I could teleport my loved ones to come and share in the delight and beauty of the Galápagos. 